箱根 · Onsen Mountain Resort

Hakone Complete Guide: Onsen, Mt. Fuji Views & The Hakone Loop

Hot springs, lake cruises, ropeway over a volcano, and the most-photographed Mt. Fuji view in Japan — 90 minutes from Shinjuku

HakoneOnsenMt. FujiDay Trip

Hakone is the day trip (or overnight) that Tokyo travellers add when they want to see Mt. Fuji and soak in a hot spring without making a long detour. 90 minutes from Shinjuku, it sits in a caldera at the edge of the Hakone volcano, with a famous loop of trains, cable cars, ropeways, and a pirate-themed lake cruise. It is touristy, well-organized, and excellent — exactly the kind of place that earns its reputation.

This guide covers the famous Hakone Loop in order, how the Free Pass works, where to soak, and whether to do it as a day trip or stay overnight at a ryokan.

From Shinjuku~90 min by Romancecar

Hakone Free Pass¥6,100 / 2 days (from Shinjuku)

Best forMt. Fuji views + onsen

Day trip OR overnightOvernight strongly recommended

Getting to Hakone

Hakone is on the Odakyu private rail line from Shinjuku. Two service options:

• Odakyu Romancecar (limited express): reserved seat, panoramic windows on some carriages. 90 minutes Shinjuku → Hakone-Yumoto. Adds ¥1,200–¥1,400 limited-express fee on top of regular fare.
• Express train (no reservation): 110 minutes Shinjuku → Hakone-Yumoto. Cheaper if you do not have the Free Pass.
• From Tokyo Station: Tokaido Shinkansen to Odawara (35 minutes), then Hakone Tozan Line to Hakone-Yumoto (15 minutes). Faster for JR Pass holders.
• Klook day tour: View Klook Hakone tours for guided full-day options including pickup.

The Hakone Free Pass

The most cost-effective way to do Hakone for first-time visitors. The Hakone Free Pass covers:

• Round-trip Odakyu train (Shinjuku ↔ Hakone-Yumoto, NOT the Romancecar surcharge).
• Unlimited rides on Hakone Tozan Railway (the cog train up the mountain).
• Hakone Tozan Cable Car.
• Hakone Ropeway (gondola over the volcanic Owakudani crater).
• Hakone Sightseeing Cruise (the famous "pirate ship" on Lake Ashi).
• Hakone Tozan Bus and Tozan Bus routes around the lake.
• Small discounts at major attractions (Open-Air Museum, etc.).

2-Day Pass (Shinjuku)¥6,100 adult / ¥1,100 child

3-Day Pass (Shinjuku)¥6,500 adult / ¥1,350 child

2-Day Pass (Odawara)¥5,000 / ¥1,000 (Shinkansen users)

Romancecar surcharge¥1,200–¥1,400 each way (extra)

The Free Pass usually pays for itself by the second leg of the loop — without it, individual tickets add up to ¥8,000+ in one day.

Where to buy: at Odakyu Travel Service Center inside Shinjuku Station West Exit. English-speaking staff. Allow 15 minutes for purchase + paperwork.

The Hakone Loop (Standard Day-Trip Route)

The classic Hakone Loop is a one-day circuit that uses every type of transport included in the Free Pass. Most travellers do it clockwise from Hakone-Yumoto Station.

1. Hakone-Yumoto (arrival station): traditional hot spring town. Drop off bags at coin lockers if doing a day trip.
2. Hakone Tozan Railway: cog train climbing to Gora. 40 minutes, three switchbacks for the steep ascent. Sit on the right side going up for the best views.
3. Gora → Sounzan via Hakone Tozan Cable Car: 10-minute cable car ride. The "cable car" is a funicular, not a gondola.
4. Sounzan → Togendai via Hakone Ropeway: 30-minute gondola ride over the Owakudani crater — sulfur fumes, steam vents, and Mt. Fuji on clear days. The dramatic centerpiece of the loop.
5. Togendai → Hakone-machi or Moto-Hakone via "pirate ship": the Hakone Sightseeing Cruise on Lake Ashi. 30 minutes. The boat is dressed up as a Spanish galleon — touristy but the view of Mt. Fuji across the lake is excellent.
6. Moto-Hakone: the historic post town on the south shore. Hakone Shrine (with the famous torii gate in the lake), small lakeside cafes.
7. Bus back to Hakone-Yumoto: 40 minutes by Hakone Tozan Bus.

Total loop time: roughly 6–7 hours including stops. Demanding for a single day; manageable if you start by 09:00.

Major Stops Worth Knowing

Hakone Open-Air Museum (Choukoku-no-Mori)

Sculpture park in a forest setting, with a notable Picasso pavilion and a Henry Moore collection. Walk-through experience with kid-friendly outdoor playgrounds. ¥2,000 adult.

Owakudani Crater

Volcanic valley with active steam vents at 1,044m elevation. Famous for kuro-tamago — eggs boiled in the sulfur springs, turning black. ¥500 for 5 eggs. Local legend: eating one kuro-tamago adds 7 years to your life.

Hakone Shrine (Moto-Hakone)

A 1,200-year-old shrine with the iconic "Heiwa no Torii" — a vermillion torii gate standing in Lake Ashi. The most-photographed spot in Hakone. Free, open dawn to dusk. Long queue for the photo on weekends.

Pola Museum of Art

Modernist building in the forest containing French Impressionist masters (Monet, Renoir, Picasso). One of Japan's most-praised museums. ¥2,200 adult.

Hakone Yuryo (day-use onsen)

Excellent day-use onsen near Hakone-Yumoto Station, with private rotenburo (outdoor bath) rentals. ¥1,500–¥3,000. Towel rental included.

Day Trip vs Overnight

Honest recommendation: overnight beats day trip in Hakone. The full loop is rushed in a day, the ryokan experience is half the appeal, and evening onsen + dinner is what makes Hakone memorable.

Day trip (~10 hours)

• Pros: cheap (¥6,100 pass + ¥3,000 food), no hotel booking needed.
• Cons: rushed loop, no evening onsen, no kaiseki dinner.
• Best for: travellers with tight Tokyo schedules.

Overnight (1 night, 2 days)

• Pros: ryokan experience, real onsen time, kaiseki dinner, slow morning.
• Cons: ¥15,000–¥40,000 per person for ryokan. Need to plan ahead.
• Best for: anyone with 10+ days in Japan, especially first-time visitors.

Hakone ryokan are special. If you do one Japan ryokan during your trip, do it in Hakone. The combination of forest, mountain, onsen, and kaiseki is what people remember.

Where to Stay in Hakone

Ryokan (traditional inn)

• Tonosawa Quatre Saisons: mid-range modern ryokan, river-side rotenburo. From ¥25,000/person.
• Hakone Yuyado Zen: small ryokan with private onsen baths. From ¥30,000/person.
• Gora Hanaougi: upscale ryokan in Gora. From ¥40,000/person.
• Hakone Suishoen: luxury ryokan, kaiseki dinner included. From ¥50,000/person.
• Browse Hakone hotels on Booking.com

Western-style hotels

• Hyatt Regency Hakone: mid-range, large rooms, full hot spring facilities.
• Hakone Hotel Kowakien: family-friendly, on-site amusement park.
• Hakone Resort Tonosawa: mid-range, river-facing.

Budget

• Hakone Tent (hostel): backpacker-friendly with hot spring access. From ¥5,000.
• K's House Hakone: well-reviewed hostel chain location.

What to Eat in Hakone

• Kuro-tamago (Owakudani): the sulfur-boiled black eggs. ¥500/5.
• Soba and udon: traditional mountain cooking. Try Hatsuhana in Hakone-Yumoto for famous soba.
• Tofu specialties: Hakone's volcanic water makes excellent tofu. Try Tofu Dokoro Hagiya in Hakone-Yumoto.
• Hakone beer: local craft brewery. Available at most cafes.
• Yuba (tofu skin): a delicate Hakone specialty. Try at Itoh Dining or similar lakeside restaurants.
• Kaiseki at ryokan: multi-course mountain cuisine. Usually included in overnight ryokan stay (¥10,000–¥20,000 dinner-equivalent value).

When to Visit Hakone

Spring (April–May)Cherry blossoms + warming weather. Crowded.

Summer (June–August)Escape Tokyo heat — Hakone is 5–10°C cooler.

Autumn (October–November)Foliage peak mid-November. Most popular season.

Winter (December–March)Clearest Mt. Fuji views. Onsen weather is perfect.

Best Mt. Fuji visibility: December through February mornings (08:00–11:00). On clear winter days, the Hakone Ropeway and Lake Ashi views are unforgettable.

Common Closures and Disruptions

• Hakone Ropeway: closes when volcanic activity is elevated. Buses substitute. Check Hakone Navi app before going.
• Owakudani crater area: sometimes closed entirely due to gas levels. Status posted online.
• Lake Ashi cruise: runs in most weather but cancels in strong winds.
• Maintenance days: some lift/cable car sections close monthly for inspection. Check schedule.

One-Day Hakone Itinerary (Day Trip)

1. 07:30: Romancecar from Shinjuku.
2. 09:00: Arrive Hakone-Yumoto. Lockers, restroom, coffee.
3. 09:30: Hakone Tozan Railway to Gora.
4. 10:30: Open-Air Museum (if interested, 90 minutes; or skip).
5. 12:00: Cable car from Gora to Sounzan.
6. 12:30: Ropeway over Owakudani.
7. 13:00: Lunch + kuro-tamago at Owakudani station.
8. 14:00: Ropeway continues to Togendai.
9. 14:30: Pirate ship cruise across Lake Ashi to Moto-Hakone.
10. 15:30: Hakone Shrine torii photo.
11. 16:30: Bus back to Hakone-Yumoto.
12. 17:30: Hakone Yuryo day-use onsen (1 hour soak).
13. 19:00: Romancecar back to Shinjuku.
14. 20:30: Arrive Shinjuku.

Two-Day Hakone Itinerary (Overnight)

Day 1

1. Romancecar from Shinjuku at 09:00.
2. Full Hakone Loop with no rush — Open-Air Museum, Owakudani lunch, Lake Ashi cruise.
3. Check into ryokan around 16:00.
4. Evening onsen + kaiseki dinner.
5. Late-night soak.

Day 2

1. Early-morning onsen (sunrise if weather is clear).
2. Ryokan breakfast.
3. Pola Museum of Art OR Hakone Garden walks.
4. Lunch at a soba shop.
5. Romancecar back to Tokyo afternoon.

Hakone with Kids

• Open-Air Museum: has a kid's playground (Symphonic Sculpture, Curved Hut, Wagon).
• Hakone Kowakien Yunessun: indoor/outdoor water park with themed baths (wine, coffee, sake). ¥3,500 day pass.
• Pirate ship cruise: the boat is shaped like a galleon. Kids love it.
• Owakudani: caution — sulfur smell can be overwhelming for small children.

Practical Tips

• Buy Free Pass before leaving Tokyo. Saves time and the math works out clearly.
• Sit on the right side of the Romancecar from Shinjuku for Mt. Fuji glimpses.
• Coin lockers at Hakone-Yumoto are limited; arrive early for the bigger ones.
• Cash needed at smaller restaurants and the Owakudani egg stalls.
• Cell coverage drops in the higher elevations. Save offline maps.
• Weather changes fast. Bring a light jacket even on warm Tokyo days.
• Tattoos and ryokan onsen: some traditional ryokan still restrict visible tattoos. Confirm at booking if relevant.

Pair Hakone with the Wider Trip

Hakone makes the strongest case as an overnight in a longer Japan trip. See our Best Day Trips from Tokyo for the wider day-trip context, and our Mt. Fuji Day Trip guide if you want to focus on Fuji views without the loop.